WEAVE IN FOCUS- CHETTINAD

When we notice a saree or any textile for that matter, we notice its colour, motifs and its texture at the most.  But when it comes to a handwoven textile, it's more connected to the region where it comes from. You can see the aspects of the region in the colour, motifs and even the thickness of the fabric.

In this series of weaves in focus, we talk about different traditional weaves of India and try to learn together about it and analyze how it's been evolving in respect to the current times.

ORIGIN

Chettinad sarees come from the Chettinad or Karaikudi region of Tamilnadu. Chettinad, known for its majestic mansions with its distinct architecture, Athangudi tiles and flavoursome food is also known for its handwoven cotton sarees. The Chettiar community of Chettinad, commissioned skilled weavers to create these sarees with its distinct aesthetics, deeply rooted in the cultural heritage of the community.

Traditionally, these sarees were woven in the homes of weavers in this small village in earthern shades of browns, reds, mustards and blacks. It also used to be only woven in moderately thick pure cotton with a lots of bold checks and stripes, contrast borders in their design vocabulary. Chettinad sarees were also known as Kandaangi sarees where the body of the saree was woven in fine checks, borders had simple motifs and stripes or checks in the pallu. Koorainadu, another region of Tamilnadu, has its version of Koorainadu Kandaangi saree where similar sarees are made in silk cotton.  

FABRIC & MOTIFS

Chettinad sarees come in thick cotton in vibrant and dark colours and feature a contrasting border with floral, animal and geometric motifs. Use of checks and stripes on the body are very common. 

EVOLUTION

Now, these sarees are perfect as a casual everyday wear since these have a minimal aesthetic with zero or minimum use of zari. However, these weaves have become more versatile in its use, as sarees are being woven in silk cotton or even pure silk these days. Finer count cotton yarn is also being used now to make the fabric more soft. The aesthetic also has picked up its elements from other weaves such as a Kanjivaram. 

So like every other weave, Chettinad has also evolved absorbing and exchanging multiple elements from other weaves but has it lost its own identity in the journey? Now, that's something to discuss.

Shop Chettinad sarees online: https://www.niramneela.in/search?q=chettinad&options%5Bprefix%5D=last